Frequently Asked Questions

Built-in cupboards and wardrobes, kitchen cupboards, interior and exterior doors, door frames, shelving, timber and composite decks, and ceilings — for homes across East London and the surrounding towns.

Yes. Headboards, bedside pedestals, chests of drawers, TV units, bookcases and similar pieces are made to your size, colour and finish, then delivered and fitted. Send us a photo or sketch of what you have in mind on WhatsApp and we'll quote it.

Yes — sagging or misaligned cupboard doors, broken hinges and drawer runners, loose joints and damaged panels. Where a repair isn't worth it, we'll tell you and quote a replacement instead.

Often, yes — if the frame is square, solid and not rotten, a new door can be hung in it. If the frame is damaged, rotten at the base or out of square, replacing both gives a door that closes properly. We check this at the site visit.

Timber absorbs moisture in damp weather and swells, and a door that was hung with too little clearance, or that has an unsealed edge, sticks as a result. Re-hanging, planing and sealing the edges usually fixes it.

Yes — alcoves, chimney breasts, sloped ceilings and out-of-square walls are exactly why cupboards should be built to measure rather than bought flat-pack.

Yes. Re-hanging doors, fitting shelving or replacing a single frame are all worth a call — and they're easy to combine with other work in the same visit.

Yes. The site measure and written, itemised quote are free in East London suburbs, with no obligation.

A facelift — new doors, tops and handles on your existing layout — typically costs R30,000–R70,000. A full mid-range kitchen renovation with new cabinetry throughout typically runs R80,000–R180,000, and high-end kitchens with stone tops and custom cabinetry cost more. We give you a fixed, itemised quote after a free on-site measure.

Kitchen cabinetry in East London typically runs R2,500 – R12,000+ per linear metre installed. Melamine carcasses with melamine doors sit at the lower end; wrap doors and soft-close hardware sit in the middle; sprayed duco doors with stone tops sit at the top. Because it's charged by the metre, a galley kitchen and an L-shaped kitchen of the same floor area can differ substantially — we measure the actual cabinet runs before quoting.

Nationally most built-in kitchen cupboards fall between R2,500 and R12,000 per linear metre installed, and East London sits in that range. Beware quotes far below it — they usually mean standard chipboard carcasses rather than moisture-resistant board, which is a false economy in a coastal kitchen where a single dishwasher leak or humid summer can swell an unsealed edge.

Melamine is the most cost-effective and comes in solid colours and wood-grain foils. Wrap doors give a seamless, moisture-sealed matte finish at a moderate step up in cost. Duco is a sprayed painted finish — the smoothest, most premium look, at the highest cost and needing more care to avoid chips.

Yes — new doors, countertops and handles fitted to your existing carcasses and layout is one of our most requested projects, and it's significantly faster and cheaper than a full rebuild.

We coordinate the plumbing and electrical trades a renovation needs — moving a sink or adding under-cabinet lighting — so you deal with one team rather than managing separate contractors yourself.

Standard chipboard swells and delaminates if it gets wet — a real risk under a sink or near a dishwasher, especially in East London's humid coastal climate. We build every carcass from moisture-resistant board as standard, not as an upgrade.

The cupboards themselves often look cheaper on the shelf, but that price doesn't include measuring, cutting, plumbing and electrical coordination, or fitting — and standard flat-pack sizes rarely match an existing kitchen's actual dimensions without gaps, filler panels or wasted space. A custom quote is itemised for your kitchen specifically, so it's a fairer comparison than it first looks, and you're not left assembling and fitting it yourself.

Handleless and slimline-handle doors, matte and textured finishes over high-gloss, two-tone cabinetry (a darker island against lighter perimeter units), and integrated appliances are the strongest trends we're fitting in East London kitchens right now. We'll talk through which of these suit your layout and budget rather than pushing a single look on every kitchen.

Most built-in cupboards cost roughly R2,500–R12,000 per linear metre depending on door finish and internal fit-out — a single bedroom's cupboards typically total R15,000–R45,000. We give a fixed, itemised quote after measuring your room.

A standard main-bedroom run of built-in cupboards in East London typically totals R15,000 – R45,000 installed. The three things that move that figure most are the linear metres of cupboard, whether you choose sliding or hinged doors, and how much internal fit-out you want — a single rail and shelf costs far less than drawers, shoe racks and dividers.

Per unit of storage, usually yes — and they use the room far better, because they're built to your actual wall, including around chimney breasts, sloped ceilings and alcoves that a standard wardrobe simply can't use. A flat-pack wardrobe has a lower sticker price, but it wastes the gaps above and beside it, and it doesn't add to the property the way fitted cupboards do.

Yes — this is one of the most common reasons rooms need a custom-measured cupboard rather than a flat-pack unit, and it's exactly the kind of awkward space we design around.

Sliding doors save floor space since they don't swing open, which suits smaller rooms, but typically cost more than hinged doors of the same size. Hinged doors give full access to the whole cupboard at once and are usually the more cost-effective option. We'll recommend based on your room.

Yes — cupboards are commonly fitted alongside ceiling, skirting or window work in the same room, and we can plan and quote it as one visit rather than separate call-outs.

Yes — hanging rails, shelving, drawers and shoe racks are planned around what you actually need to store, not a fixed generic layout.

You'll hear it called a BIC (built-in cupboard), a fitted wardrobe, or a fitted cupboard — all the same thing: cabinetry built into the room and fixed to the walls, floor and ceiling, rather than a free-standing wardrobe you could move out with you.

Sliding doors are usually the better call in a small room, since they don't need floor space to swing open, and a mirror-fronted door adds the extra benefit of making the room feel larger. For kids' rooms, we design the internal layout with lower hanging rails and shelves they can actually reach, and build in the flexibility to reconfigure it as they grow rather than fitting a fixed child-height layout that's outgrown in a few years.

Flat-pack units can look cheaper upfront, but they're sized to a standard opening — not your room's actual chimney breast, sloped ceiling or alcove — which usually means gaps, filler panels, or a cupboard that simply doesn't fit the space well. A custom-measured quote covers the room you actually have, fitted and finished, so it's a fairer comparison than the sticker price suggests.

Yes. We run a downpipe from your gutters into the tank inlet so rain refills the tank automatically. If the gutters are undersized, leaking or falling the wrong way, we'll tell you and can fix them as part of the same job.

Yes, with the right setup. A pressure pump feeds the house plumbing, and a multi-stage filtration stack — sediment, carbon block and fine-micron filters — cleans harvested rainwater before it reaches your taps.

It does. Water is heavy, so a full tank puts serious load on the ground beneath it. The base must be level, solid and slightly larger than the tank. We prepare it before installation because an uneven base can distort and crack a tank over time.

It depends on how many people live in the home, what you want the water for (garden only, or the whole house) and how long you want to be covered during an outage. We work this out with you on the site visit rather than guessing.

Yes. Our installation workmanship carries a warranty, and the tank, pump and filter housings carry their manufacturers' warranties, which we pass on to you at hand-over.

Yes. Our electrical work is done and signed off by a registered electrician, who can issue an electrical Certificate of Compliance (COC) for the installation.

Earth leakage trips when current leaks to earth — most often from water in an outside light or plug, a damaged cable, or a faulty appliance such as a geyser element or kettle. Switching circuits off one at a time narrows it down, and fault finding with test equipment finds the exact point. Don't bypass the earth leakage: it is the device that stops electric shocks.

Yes — shops, offices, guesthouses, workshops, factories and warehouses. That includes three-phase supply, distribution boards for machinery, lighting, refurbishments of old installations and planned maintenance.

Yes. We wire inverters, batteries and changeover switches into the DB board so the essential circuits keep running during outages, and certify the installation.

It depends on the job, so we quote a fixed, itemised price after seeing it rather than an hourly rate that keeps running. The site visit and quote in East London suburbs are free.

Yes — Beacon Bay, Gonubie, Nahoon, Cove Rock, Kidd's Beach, Mdantsane, King William's Town, Bhisho, Berlin and everywhere within about 60km of East London.

Yes — new electric fences on walls and palisades, energiser replacements, and repairs to fences that are shorting, down or not alarming.

Laminate is hard-wearing and cost-effective for dry rooms like lounges, bedrooms and passages. Vinyl plank is more water-resistant and quieter underfoot, which makes it the better choice for kitchens and areas that see spills. We'll recommend per room.

Often, yes, if the existing floor is flat, solid and dry. Carpets need to be removed, and uneven or damp floors must be levelled or given a moisture barrier first. We check this at the site visit.

Usually because they were laid over an uneven base or without an expansion gap at the walls. Getting both right is part of how we prepare and install every floor.

Yes. We fit skirtings and doorway threshold strips so every edge is finished, and can match skirtings to the rest of the house.

Yes. Our installation workmanship carries a warranty, and the flooring itself carries the manufacturer's warranty, which we pass on to you.

An electrical Certificate of Compliance (COC) is a certificate, with a test report, confirming that a property's fixed electrical installation has been inspected and tested and complies with the South African wiring code. It is issued by a registered electrician.

A COC does not simply expire, but when a property is sold the seller may not transfer it with a COC older than two years (Electrical Installation Regulations, 2009, regulation 7). Any addition or alteration to the installation since the COC was issued also needs to be certified.

The obligation to have a valid COC is on the user or lessor of the installation, so in a sale it is normally the seller who arranges and pays for it. The sale agreement can say otherwise, so check yours.

We give you a written list of every fault with a fixed, itemised price to fix it. Once the repairs are done, the installation is re-tested and the COC is issued.

Missing or faulty earth leakage protection, no bonding on the geyser and metal pipes, unlabelled or overloaded DB boards, open junction boxes, damaged plugs and switches, and corroded outside fittings.

No. An electric fence installed after 1 October 2012 needs a separate electric fence system certificate under the Electrical Machinery Regulations, 2011, including when the property is sold.

It depends on the size of the property and the number of circuits and DB boards. We quote a fixed price for the inspection upfront, and any repairs are quoted separately and itemised.

Yes, if the fence was installed after 1 October 2012. The Electrical Machinery Regulations, 2011 require the user of an electric fence system to have an electric fence system certificate, and a change of ownership triggers that requirement.

No. The electrical COC covers the fixed wiring in the property. The electric fence has its own electric fence system certificate. Unlike the electrical COC, the electric fence certificate does not expire and transfers with the property.

Usually something is shorting the wires to earth — vegetation, a broken insulator, a fallen strand or a corroded joint — or the energiser or battery is failing. Testing the fence section by section finds the fault.

It depends on the battery, the energiser and how often the power is off. A battery that no longer keeps the fence live through load-shedding needs replacing, and we test it at every service.

Yes. Wall-top brackets are fixed to most brick and precast walls. If the wall top is cracked or crumbling, we repair it first so the brackets hold.

It depends on the length of the perimeter, the number of strands, the gates and the energiser. We measure on site and give you a fixed, itemised quote — the site visit is free in East London suburbs.

Usually because of what's underneath — an uneven screed, the wrong adhesive, or gaps in adhesive coverage behind the tile. Levelling the base and full adhesive coverage prevent it.

Sometimes, if the existing tiles are firmly bonded, level and the extra height won't cause problems at doors. Loose, hollow or cracked tiles need to come up first. We check at the site visit.

Porcelain is denser and more hard-wearing, so it suits busy floors and wet areas. Ceramic is more cost-effective and works well on walls and lighter-traffic floors.

Yes — full-height wall tiling, floors and walk-in showers, with waterproofing and proper falls done first.

Yes. The site visit and written, itemised quote are free in East London suburbs.

The 5-micron sediment stage catches sand, rust and silt. The carbon block stage reduces chlorine, taste and odour. The 1-micron stage removes finer particles. A standard 3-stage system like this doesn't disinfect water, so for untreated sources where bacteria are a concern, ask us about adding a disinfection stage.

The whole house. The system is plumbed into the main supply line, so every tap and shower gets filtered water.

Yes. On a tank system we fit the filters after the pressure pump, so rainwater is filtered before it enters the house plumbing.

It depends on how dirty the incoming water is and how much you use. Sediment cartridges usually need changing most often. We show you how to check them and can replace cartridges for you.

Yes. Our installation workmanship carries a warranty, and the housings carry the manufacturer's warranty, which we pass on to you.

Wind-driven rain gets in where normal rain doesn't — under lifted tiles, through gaps at flashings and ridges, and past sheet overlaps that have loosened. That's why a roof can seem fine for months and then leak in the first big storm. An inspection finds those weak points before they fail.

Yes. Water often runs along a truss, batten or the underside of a sheet before it drips onto the ceiling, so we inspect both the roof and the ceiling space to trace the path back to the entry point.

If the leaks are localised and the rest of the covering is sound, a repair is usually the better value. If sheets are rusted through in many places, tiles are failing across the roof, or the same areas keep leaking after repairs, replacement is often cheaper over a few years. We set out both options in the quote when both are realistic.

Tiled roofs (concrete and clay), IBR and corrugated iron sheeting, fibre-cement sheeting and flat concrete roofs — repairs, waterproofing, re-sheeting and full replacement.

Yes. Waterproofing flat roofs, parapets and problem areas, and cleaning and painting tiled and sheeted roofs, are both part of what we do — often in the same visit as a repair.

The site visit and quote in East London suburbs are free. For towns further out, travel is built into the quote rather than charged separately.

Before the summer storm season. Dry weather makes repairs quicker and more reliable, and it avoids the rush and damage that come with fixing a roof after it has already leaked into the ceiling.

It depends on the scope. A vanity or shower upgrade is quick, while a full strip-out and re-tile takes longer because waterproofing and tile adhesive need time to cure. We give you a realistic timeline with your quote.

Yes, always. The shower area is waterproofed and the floor laid to fall towards the drain before tiling. Skipping this is the most common reason tiled showers leak into the surrounding walls.

In most bathrooms, yes. We remove the bath, adjust the plumbing and drain, waterproof and tile the area, and fit a glass door or screen.

Tell us at the site visit. We plan the order of work to keep the time without a working toilet and shower as short as possible.

Yes. Our workmanship carries a warranty, and tiles, taps, sanitaryware and glass carry their manufacturers' warranties, which we pass on to you.

Installed paving in East London typically runs R180 – R900 per m², covering excavation, sub-base, bedding sand, pavers and edge restraints. Standard interlocking concrete pavers sit at the lower end, clay brick in the middle, and cobbles or natural stone at the top. A double driveway of 50–60m² typically comes in at R9,000 – R54,000+ depending on paver choice and how much sub-base your ground needs.

As a rough split, labour and base preparation usually account for around half the cost of a paving job, with pavers making up the rest — which is why a cheap quote is almost always a quote that has skimped on excavation and compaction rather than on pavers. On Eastern Cape clay soils that's exactly where paving fails, so we quote the full build-up rather than just the visible surface.

Almost always poor sub-base preparation or missing edge restraints. We compact and prepare the base correctly and install edging on every job to prevent this.

In most cases yes, depending on whether the original paver is still manufactured — we'll advise honestly on the closest match available.

A typical residential driveway takes a few days once the base preparation is done — the sub-base compaction and curing time often takes longer than laying the pavers themselves.

Light work can continue, but proper compaction needs reasonably dry ground, so we plan around the weather rather than rushing a base that hasn't compacted properly.

For most residential driveway and patio paving you don't, but stormwater run-off and boundary-line rules can apply depending on your property and municipal requirements — we'll flag anything relevant for your specific site.

Torch-on membrane is hard-wearing and suits most flat concrete roofs. Liquid waterproofing is better for complex shapes, parapets, junctions and anywhere a torch isn't practical. Many roofs use both — membrane on the main surface and liquid coating at the details.

Only if the existing layer is well bonded and sound. Blistered, cracked or lifting membrane has to be removed first, otherwise moisture gets trapped and the new layer fails early.

The edge is where the roof meets the parapet wall, and where movement, cracking and poorly detailed membrane most often let water in. Proper up-stands and sealing at those junctions fixes most edge leaks.

Yes — balconies, exposed slabs, box gutters and roof outlets are all part of roof waterproofing work.

Yes. The site visit and written, itemised quote are free in East London suburbs.

If the covering is structurally sound, yes — cleaning and painting restores its look and adds a protective coating for a fraction of the cost of replacement. If sheets are rusted through or many tiles are failing, repairs or replacement come first.

Not directly. Rust has to be cleaned and treated, then primed with a metal primer, or it keeps spreading under the new paint and lifts it. Sheets rusted right through need replacing.

Yes. A pressure clean on its own removes moss, lichen and dirt, and it also shows up any cracked tiles or problem areas that need attention.

Yes — lighter colours reflect more of the sun's heat, which reduces how hot the roof and ceiling space get in summer.

Yes. The roof inspection and written, itemised quote are free in East London suburbs.

Installed decking in East London typically runs R1,200 – R4,500 per m², covering the substructure, decking boards and finishing. Treated pine sits at the lower end, hardwoods such as balau and garapa in the middle, and composite decking at the upper end. Height, site slope, balustrades and steps all move the figure, so we give you a fixed, itemised quote after a free on-site assessment.

A 20m² residential deck typically costs R24,000 – R90,000+ in East London, including substructure, balustrades and sealant. The spread comes down mainly to material — a ground-level treated pine deck sits near the bottom of that range, while a raised composite deck with balustrades and steps sits near the top.

Yes, upfront. Composite boards cost noticeably more per m² than treated pine and generally more than hardwood, but they need no oiling or sealing, and they don't splinter, fade or warp. Over 10–15 years near the coast the maintenance saving often closes the gap. We'll give you both figures side by side rather than steering you to the pricier option by default.

Three things worth knowing: the upfront cost is the highest of the standard options; it can get noticeably hotter underfoot than timber in direct summer sun, which matters around a pool; and it doesn't have the natural grain and feel of real hardwood. It won't rot, splinter or need oiling — but it isn't a perfect substitute for timber in every setting.

With the right substructure, treated timber and a proper sealant maintenance cycle, a well-built deck can comfortably last 15-20+ years near the coast. We advise on resealing intervals when we hand the deck over.

Both. We regularly recondition tired decks — replacing rotten boards, re-levelling substructures and refinishing — as well as building new decks from scratch.

Yes — this is one of our most popular combinations. We design the deck framing to carry the additional load of a built-in braai or pizza oven from the outset.

Hardwood (balau, garapa, meranti) has a natural look and feel but needs periodic sealing or oiling. Composite costs more upfront but needs little ongoing maintenance and resists fading and splintering. We'll help you weigh that trade-off against your budget.

We stand behind our workmanship and will return to fix any structural issue caused by our build. Timber and composite materials carry their own manufacturer guarantees, which we pass on to you at handover.

It depends on your garden's slope and how you want the space to flow. Raised decks suit sloped sites or pool surrounds; ground-level decks work best connecting a patio door straight onto the lawn. We assess this on the first site visit.

A full residential gutter replacement typically costs R4,500 – R12,000 depending on house size, gutter profile and roof access, with larger or double-storey homes running to R18,000+. Roof height is a real cost factor — anything needing scaffold or rope access costs more than the same run at single-storey height.

Three are common here: seamless aluminium, formed on-site in one continuous length with no joints along the run, which makes it the most leak-resistant; PVC, the cost-effective and corrosion-proof option suited to most homes; and steel, durable for larger roof areas and finished to resist coastal corrosion. We'll recommend based on your roof size, exposure and budget rather than defaulting to one.

Usually undersized gutters for the roof catchment area, incorrect fall, or blocked downpipes. We assess and correctly size any replacement.

It's based on your roof's catchment area and the local rainfall intensity, not just the length of the roofline. We measure and calculate this on-site rather than guessing.

Where the rest of the run is sound, we can usually replace just the damaged or rusted section and tie it in cleanly, rather than redoing the entire roofline.

We stand behind our installation workmanship, and materials carry their own manufacturer guarantees, which we pass on to you at handover.

Gypsum ceiling installation typically runs R90 – R160 per m², with the full range reaching about R180/m² for more complex work such as bulkheads or high ceilings requiring scaffold. Cornices are charged separately, usually R85 – R160 per linear metre installed. We measure and quote room by room rather than applying one rate to the whole house.

Standard gypsum board is the most cost-effective for most rooms and gives the smoothest paint finish. PVC costs more per m² but is worth it in consistently damp areas such as bathrooms, since it won't sag or stain the way gypsum can. Fibre board sits between them. We match the board to the room rather than using the cheapest option everywhere and hoping.

Yes — once the leak itself is resolved, we replace the damaged board and refinish the cornicing so there's no visible patch.

Rhino board is more impact- and moisture-resistant, which suits areas like garages or laundries; gypsum gives a slightly smoother finish for living areas. We'll recommend based on the specific room.

A standard room ceiling with cornicing typically takes a few days including finishing time; larger areas or full-home re-ceiling take longer. We'll scope this on-site.

A single manual swing gate starts from around R8,000 installed. Motorised double driveway gates typically run R22,000 – R55,000+ depending on width, bar pattern complexity and motor brand. Width and automation are the two biggest cost drivers — a wider opening needs a heavier frame and a stronger motor, not simply more steel.

A 3m sliding steel gate with automation generally falls between R18,000 and R32,000 installed, depending on design, motor brand, and whether the track and posts need new concrete footings. We size the motor to the gate's actual weight and daily usage rather than fitting the cheapest unit that technically moves it — undersized motors are the most common reason automated gates fail early.

In most cases yes — we assess the existing gate's weight and condition and fit a motor and safety sensors suited to it.

Safety sensors and obstruction detection are standard on any automation we fit, so the gate stops or reverses rather than continuing to close against an obstruction.

A custom steel gate typically needs to be fabricated to your exact opening before installation, so timelines depend on design complexity — we'll give you a realistic schedule once the design is signed off.

Yes — we can assess and repair faulty gate motors and safety sensors on existing automated gates, not only fit new ones.

A single steel carport typically costs R18,000 – R30,000 installed, and a double R28,000 – R65,000+ depending on span, height clearance and roof material. Span is the main driver: a wider opening with no intermediate posts needs heavier beams, which costs more than the extra square metres alone would suggest.

Often yes. A carport is a structure, and Buffalo City Metro can require plan approval depending on its size, height and how close it sits to your boundary — free-standing structures and anything near a boundary line are the usual triggers. Rules also vary by estate or complex. We'll flag what your specific site is likely to need before you commit, rather than leaving you to find out afterwards.

As a working guide, around 6m wide by 6m deep comfortably takes two mid-size cars with room to open doors; 5.5m wide is workable but tight. Height matters as much as width — allow at least 2.1m clearance for a standard car, and more if you have a bakkie, roof rack or 4x4. We confirm the span and clearance against your actual vehicles before quoting.

Yes, wall-mounted carports are common and cost-effective where there's an existing boundary or house wall to tie into.

Often yes, depending on the size and your specific municipality's requirements — we advise on this for your property rather than assuming a one-size-fits-all answer.

IBR and polycarbonate are both common choices; the right one depends on whether you want maximum weather protection or more natural light through the roof. We finish steelwork with anti-corrosion priming either way.

A built-in brick braai starts from around R8,000. A full outdoor kitchen with counters, storage and a chimney typically costs R25,000 – R65,000+. The flue and firebox are where the money should go — they're what decides whether the braai actually draws properly, and they're the hardest part to fix afterwards.

Yes, meaningfully. Sharing one mobilisation, one set of foundations and one finishing pass costs less than adding a braai to a finished space later, where you're cutting into completed paving or decking to get footings in. It also lets us design the deck framing to carry the braai's weight from the start rather than reinforcing it retrospectively.

Yes — correct flue sizing and chimney height relative to surrounding walls and roof lines is the single biggest factor, and we design for it before building, not after.

Yes, we build both open-air built-in braais and fully roofed boma-style entertainment areas with thatch, IBR or timber roofing.

Yes — prep counters, sinks, storage and a side burner can all be built into the same project as the braai itself, planned as one outdoor kitchen rather than a braai with extras bolted on.

A simple built-in braai can often be finished within a week or two once the design is signed off; a full outdoor kitchen with counters, roofing and finishing takes longer. We'll give you a realistic timeline for your specific design.

A complete entertainment area — deck or paving, braai, lighting and planting — typically costs R65,000 – R200,000+ depending on footprint and specification, with smaller deck-and-braai combinations starting around R45,000. Because we quote it as one project rather than four, the sequencing and shared mobilisation usually save against getting separate trade quotes.

Yes, and it's often the smart way to do it. We design the full layout upfront — traffic flow, sun, smoke direction, seating, and where cabling and drainage need to run — then build in stages as budget allows. Planning the whole thing first means phase two doesn't require breaking up phase one to get services in.

No — we quote the entertainment area as a single bespoke project so the design, sequencing and finishes are consistent, and you only deal with one team.

It depends on scope — a deck-and-braai combination is quicker than a full layout with paving, lighting and landscaping. We'll set out a realistic timeline once we've scoped your design.

Yes — many of our entertainment area projects extend or upgrade something that's already there, rather than a full rebuild. We'll assess what's worth keeping on the first site visit.

Landscaping in East London typically runs R12,000 – R120,000+ depending on scope. A full garden redesign including retaining walls, planting and irrigation usually lands between R25,000 and R80,000+, while a smaller refresh of existing beds and lawn costs considerably less. Level changes and retaining are the biggest single cost driver on sloped Eastern Cape sites.

Structural work, almost always — retaining walls, excavation and drainage. Planting is usually a smaller share of the budget than people expect. That's why we quote structural work separately from planting and finishing: it shows you exactly where the money goes, and it lets you phase the project if you'd rather do the hard landscaping now and the planting later.

Yes — we plan and install irrigation as part of the landscaping design so new lawns and beds establish properly from the start.

Our focus is the design and build — the retaining walls, lawn renovation, planting and irrigation. We're happy to advise on a maintenance routine and can recommend next steps once the garden is established.

Salt- and wind-tolerant species generally do best closer to the coast, while more sheltered inland gardens have wider planting options. We choose planting based on how exposed your specific site is, not a one-size-fits-all list.

Aluminium window replacement typically costs R2,500 – R6,000 per unit installed, with larger feature windows running R4,000 – R8,500+. That includes removing the old frame, fitting, sealing and the plastering and painting around the new frame — the finishing work that's often quoted separately elsewhere and then comes as a surprise.

PVC is usually cheaper upfront, but aluminium is the stronger choice on the Eastern Cape coast. PVC can discolour and become brittle under sustained UV, while properly finished aluminium resists both UV and salt-air corrosion, and it carries larger glass panes on slimmer frames. For a coastal home, the upfront saving on PVC often doesn't survive the replacement cycle.

Steel frames are often cheaper to buy, but near the coast they're the more expensive choice over time — salt air attacks steel, and once rust starts at a weld or fixing it spreads behind the paint. Aluminium doesn't rust, which is why it's replaced steel on most East London coastal homes. Replacing old rusted steel frames with aluminium is one of our most common window jobs.

Yes — plastering, painting and sealing around the new frame is included so the finish looks intentional, not patched.

Sliding, casement (side-hung), top-hung and louvre windows — the right configuration depends on the opening, the ventilation you need and how exposed that wall is to wind-driven rain.

Yes — this is one of our most common window jobs on older East London homes, where timber frames have swollen, rotted or are simply due for an upgrade.

Yes, properly finished aluminium resists the salt-air corrosion that affects steel frames, and good sealing at installation keeps out wind-driven rain — the main coastal failure point for older window installations.

A deck or garden lighting installation typically costs R6,500 – R18,000+, with larger multi-zone schemes running to R30,000. Fitting count and cable routing drive the price — trenching cable across an established garden or chasing it through finished paving costs considerably more than wiring the same layout during a build.

No — low-voltage LED fittings draw a fraction of the power of mains floodlighting, which is why they've become the standard for garden and deck lighting. The running cost of a typical garden scheme is negligible next to the installation cost, so it's worth specifying enough fittings to light the space properly rather than under-lighting to save on electricity.

Yes, though it's more cost-effective to wire it in during the build. We can retrofit lighting into existing decks and paved areas where needed.

Yes — we often combine the two in one layout, so entrances and vulnerable areas get functional security lighting while the rest of the garden gets softer, more usable lighting.

No — low-voltage LED fittings use very little power compared to mains floodlighting, which is part of why they've become the standard choice for garden and deck lighting.

Raised flower bed construction typically costs R4,500 – R15,000, and a full bed design including soil preparation and planting runs R8,000 – R35,000+. The main variables are the number and size of beds, the edging material, and how much soil improvement the existing ground needs before anything will establish properly.

Brick and stone edging need the least upkeep and hold their line for years. Steel gives a cleaner, more modern edge but needs occasional rust treatment in coastal exposure, and treated timber sits between the two on both cost and lifespan. For an exposed coastal garden we usually recommend brick or stone unless the design specifically calls for a steel line.

Yes, flower bed refreshes are one of our most common smaller jobs — we can re-edge, replant and improve drainage without touching the rest of the garden.

Brick and stone edging need the least maintenance over time; steel edging gives a cleaner, more modern line but can need rust treatment near the coast. We'll recommend based on your garden's style and exposure.

Skirting typically costs R90 – R200 per linear metre installed, including painting and finishing. Across a standard home of 80–120 linear metres that works out to roughly R7,200 – R24,000+. Profile height and material are the main variables — a tall moulded solid-wood profile costs meaningfully more per metre than a simple MDF one.

MDF is the more cost-effective choice and, once primed and painted, gives a very clean line — it's what most homes here use. Solid wood costs more but handles knocks better and is the right call in high-traffic areas or where you want a stained rather than painted finish. In consistently damp spots we'd steer you to moisture-resistant board over standard MDF.

Yes — we take care during removal and refitting specifically to protect new flooring and freshly painted walls.

PVC resists moisture better than MDF, which matters in damp-prone rooms; timber gives the most natural look for living areas but needs proper sealing. We'll recommend based on the room.

In most cases yes, depending on the profile's availability — we'll advise honestly if an exact match isn't possible and suggest the closest alternative.

A steel tool shed typically costs R12,000 – R25,000, and a timber garden shed R18,000 – R50,000+ depending on size and internal fit-out. Foundation choice matters: a concrete slab costs more than timber bearers upfront but keeps the floor dry and is the better long-term option on ground that holds water.

Yes. A prefabricated Wendy house kit is cheaper and quicker, but it's a standard size dropped onto your ground. The Wendy houses and sheds we build are measured to your space — fitted to the awkward corner, with the door where you need it, a proper foundation, and a roof pitched to throw water where you want it. It costs more than a prefab and lasts considerably longer, particularly in coastal conditions.

Yes, all our sheds are custom-built to the space available rather than off-the-shelf kit sizes.

Yes — if you need bench space, shelving and power points rather than just storage, we design for that from the start.

Yes — timber is treated and finished appropriately for the salt air and humidity, and we advise on any periodic resealing needed to keep it that way.

A residential cat enclosure typically costs R8,000 – R25,000, with larger custom structures running R25,000 – R45,000+. Size, number of compartments and construction material drive the figure, along with the ground preparation — a concrete slab costs more upfront than pavers but is easier to keep clean and lasts longer.

Yes — we regularly build catteries into narrow side yards and courtyards, using vertical space with platforms where floor area is limited.

Yes — most of our catteries include at least one roofed, sheltered section so cats have shade and stay dry in bad weather, alongside the open mesh run.

Door and cupboard repairs, shelving and rails, small electrical jobs by our registered electrician, cracked tiles, ceiling and cornice repairs, gutters, and skirting and trim repairs — across East London and the surrounding towns.

We price your whole list as one visit, so you are not paying a separate call-out for every small job. Send the list and photos on WhatsApp for a fixed price.

Small electrical jobs such as plugs, lights and switches are done and tested by our registered electrician, not a general handyman.

We install water tanks, pumps and filtration systems. For general plumbing repairs, tell us what the problem is and we'll let you know straight away whether it's a job we do.

Interior walls and ceilings, exterior walls and boundary walls, roofs, timber (doors, frames, fascias and decks) and steel (gates, palisades, burglar bars and carports) — across East London and the surrounding towns.

Salt air, humidity and damp walls. Paint applied over damp, chalky or flaking surfaces, or without a primer, loses its grip. We treat damp, remove loose paint and prime before painting, and use exterior-grade coatings for the coast.

Yes. Cracks are filled and damp patches traced and treated before painting — painting over them only hides the problem until it comes back through.

Yes — ceilings, cornices, doors, skirtings and roofs can be repaired and then painted by the same team, on one quote.

Yes. The site visit and written, itemised quote are free in East London suburbs, with no obligation.