Frequently Asked Questions

It does. Water is heavy, so a full tank puts serious load on the ground beneath it. The base must be level, solid and slightly larger than the tank. We prepare it before installation because an uneven base can distort and crack a tank over time.

It depends on how many people live in the home, what you want the water for (garden only, or the whole house) and how long you want to be covered during an outage. We work this out with you on the site visit rather than guessing.

Yes. Our installation workmanship carries a warranty, and the tank, pump and filter housings carry their manufacturers' warranties, which we pass on to you at hand-over.

Yes — shops, offices, guesthouses, workshops, factories and warehouses. That includes three-phase supply, distribution boards for machinery, lighting, refurbishments of old installations and planned maintenance.

Yes. We wire inverters, batteries and changeover switches into the DB board so the essential circuits keep running during outages, and certify the installation.

It depends on the job, so we quote a fixed, itemised price after seeing it rather than an hourly rate that keeps running. The site visit and quote in East London suburbs are free.

Yes — Beacon Bay, Gonubie, Nahoon, Cove Rock, Kidd's Beach, Mdantsane, King William's Town, Bhisho, Berlin and everywhere within about 60km of East London.

Yes — new electric fences on walls and palisades, energiser replacements, and repairs to fences that are shorting, down or not alarming.

Usually because they were laid over an uneven base or without an expansion gap at the walls. Getting both right is part of how we prepare and install every floor.

Yes. We fit skirtings and doorway threshold strips so every edge is finished, and can match skirtings to the rest of the house.

Yes. Our installation workmanship carries a warranty, and the flooring itself carries the manufacturer's warranty, which we pass on to you.

The obligation to have a valid COC is on the user or lessor of the installation, so in a sale it is normally the seller who arranges and pays for it. The sale agreement can say otherwise, so check yours.

We give you a written list of every fault with a fixed, itemised price to fix it. Once the repairs are done, the installation is re-tested and the COC is issued.

Missing or faulty earth leakage protection, no bonding on the geyser and metal pipes, unlabelled or overloaded DB boards, open junction boxes, damaged plugs and switches, and corroded outside fittings.

No. An electric fence installed after 1 October 2012 needs a separate electric fence system certificate under the Electrical Machinery Regulations, 2011, including when the property is sold.

It depends on the size of the property and the number of circuits and DB boards. We quote a fixed price for the inspection upfront, and any repairs are quoted separately and itemised.

Usually something is shorting the wires to earth — vegetation, a broken insulator, a fallen strand or a corroded joint — or the energiser or battery is failing. Testing the fence section by section finds the fault.

It depends on the battery, the energiser and how often the power is off. A battery that no longer keeps the fence live through load-shedding needs replacing, and we test it at every service.

Yes. Wall-top brackets are fixed to most brick and precast walls. If the wall top is cracked or crumbling, we repair it first so the brackets hold.

It depends on the length of the perimeter, the number of strands, the gates and the energiser. We measure on site and give you a fixed, itemised quote — the site visit is free in East London suburbs.

Porcelain is denser and more hard-wearing, so it suits busy floors and wet areas. Ceramic is more cost-effective and works well on walls and lighter-traffic floors.

Yes — full-height wall tiling, floors and walk-in showers, with waterproofing and proper falls done first.

Yes. The site visit and written, itemised quote are free in East London suburbs.

Yes. On a tank system we fit the filters after the pressure pump, so rainwater is filtered before it enters the house plumbing.

It depends on how dirty the incoming water is and how much you use. Sediment cartridges usually need changing most often. We show you how to check them and can replace cartridges for you.

Yes. Our installation workmanship carries a warranty, and the housings carry the manufacturer's warranty, which we pass on to you.

If the leaks are localised and the rest of the covering is sound, a repair is usually the better value. If sheets are rusted through in many places, tiles are failing across the roof, or the same areas keep leaking after repairs, replacement is often cheaper over a few years. We set out both options in the quote when both are realistic.

Tiled roofs (concrete and clay), IBR and corrugated iron sheeting, fibre-cement sheeting and flat concrete roofs — repairs, waterproofing, re-sheeting and full replacement.

Yes. Waterproofing flat roofs, parapets and problem areas, and cleaning and painting tiled and sheeted roofs, are both part of what we do — often in the same visit as a repair.

The site visit and quote in East London suburbs are free. For towns further out, travel is built into the quote rather than charged separately.

Before the summer storm season. Dry weather makes repairs quicker and more reliable, and it avoids the rush and damage that come with fixing a roof after it has already leaked into the ceiling.

Timber absorbs moisture in damp weather and swells, and a door that was hung with too little clearance, or that has an unsealed edge, sticks as a result. Re-hanging, planing and sealing the edges usually fixes it.

Yes — alcoves, chimney breasts, sloped ceilings and out-of-square walls are exactly why cupboards should be built to measure rather than bought flat-pack.

Yes. Re-hanging doors, fitting shelving or replacing a single frame are all worth a call — and they're easy to combine with other work in the same visit.

Yes. The site measure and written, itemised quote are free in East London suburbs, with no obligation.

Per unit of storage, usually yes — and they use the room far better, because they're built to your actual wall, including around chimney breasts, sloped ceilings and alcoves that a standard wardrobe simply can't use. A flat-pack wardrobe has a lower sticker price, but it wastes the gaps above and beside it, and it doesn't add to the property the way fitted cupboards do.

Yes — this is one of the most common reasons rooms need a custom-measured cupboard rather than a flat-pack unit, and it's exactly the kind of awkward space we design around.

Sliding doors save floor space since they don't swing open, which suits smaller rooms, but typically cost more than hinged doors of the same size. Hinged doors give full access to the whole cupboard at once and are usually the more cost-effective option. We'll recommend based on your room.

Yes — cupboards are commonly fitted alongside ceiling, skirting or window work in the same room, and we can plan and quote it as one visit rather than separate call-outs.

Yes — hanging rails, shelving, drawers and shoe racks are planned around what you actually need to store, not a fixed generic layout.

You'll hear it called a BIC (built-in cupboard), a fitted wardrobe, or a fitted cupboard — all the same thing: cabinetry built into the room and fixed to the walls, floor and ceiling, rather than a free-standing wardrobe you could move out with you.

Sliding doors are usually the better call in a small room, since they don't need floor space to swing open, and a mirror-fronted door adds the extra benefit of making the room feel larger. For kids' rooms, we design the internal layout with lower hanging rails and shelves they can actually reach, and build in the flexibility to reconfigure it as they grow rather than fitting a fixed child-height layout that's outgrown in a few years.

Flat-pack units can look cheaper upfront, but they're sized to a standard opening — not your room's actual chimney breast, sloped ceiling or alcove — which usually means gaps, filler panels, or a cupboard that simply doesn't fit the space well. A custom-measured quote covers the room you actually have, fitted and finished, so it's a fairer comparison than the sticker price suggests.

In most bathrooms, yes. We remove the bath, adjust the plumbing and drain, waterproof and tile the area, and fit a glass door or screen.

Tell us at the site visit. We plan the order of work to keep the time without a working toilet and shower as short as possible.

Yes. Our workmanship carries a warranty, and tiles, taps, sanitaryware and glass carry their manufacturers' warranties, which we pass on to you.

Almost always poor sub-base preparation or missing edge restraints. We compact and prepare the base correctly and install edging on every job to prevent this.

In most cases yes, depending on whether the original paver is still manufactured — we'll advise honestly on the closest match available.

A typical residential driveway takes a few days once the base preparation is done — the sub-base compaction and curing time often takes longer than laying the pavers themselves.

Light work can continue, but proper compaction needs reasonably dry ground, so we plan around the weather rather than rushing a base that hasn't compacted properly.

For most residential driveway and patio paving you don't, but stormwater run-off and boundary-line rules can apply depending on your property and municipal requirements — we'll flag anything relevant for your specific site.

The edge is where the roof meets the parapet wall, and where movement, cracking and poorly detailed membrane most often let water in. Proper up-stands and sealing at those junctions fixes most edge leaks.

Yes — balconies, exposed slabs, box gutters and roof outlets are all part of roof waterproofing work.

Yes. The site visit and written, itemised quote are free in East London suburbs.

Yes. A pressure clean on its own removes moss, lichen and dirt, and it also shows up any cracked tiles or problem areas that need attention.

Yes — lighter colours reflect more of the sun's heat, which reduces how hot the roof and ceiling space get in summer.

Yes. The roof inspection and written, itemised quote are free in East London suburbs.

Yes, upfront. Composite boards cost noticeably more per m² than treated pine and generally more than hardwood, but they need no oiling or sealing, and they don't splinter, fade or warp. Over 10–15 years near the coast the maintenance saving often closes the gap. We'll give you both figures side by side rather than steering you to the pricier option by default.

Three things worth knowing: the upfront cost is the highest of the standard options; it can get noticeably hotter underfoot than timber in direct summer sun, which matters around a pool; and it doesn't have the natural grain and feel of real hardwood. It won't rot, splinter or need oiling — but it isn't a perfect substitute for timber in every setting.

With the right substructure, treated timber and a proper sealant maintenance cycle, a well-built deck can comfortably last 15-20+ years near the coast. We advise on resealing intervals when we hand the deck over.

Both. We regularly recondition tired decks — replacing rotten boards, re-levelling substructures and refinishing — as well as building new decks from scratch.

Yes — this is one of our most popular combinations. We design the deck framing to carry the additional load of a built-in braai or pizza oven from the outset.

Hardwood (balau, garapa, meranti) has a natural look and feel but needs periodic sealing or oiling. Composite costs more upfront but needs little ongoing maintenance and resists fading and splintering. We'll help you weigh that trade-off against your budget.

We stand behind our workmanship and will return to fix any structural issue caused by our build. Timber and composite materials carry their own manufacturer guarantees, which we pass on to you at handover.

It depends on your garden's slope and how you want the space to flow. Raised decks suit sloped sites or pool surrounds; ground-level decks work best connecting a patio door straight onto the lawn. We assess this on the first site visit.

Usually undersized gutters for the roof catchment area, incorrect fall, or blocked downpipes. We assess and correctly size any replacement.

It's based on your roof's catchment area and the local rainfall intensity, not just the length of the roofline. We measure and calculate this on-site rather than guessing.

Where the rest of the run is sound, we can usually replace just the damaged or rusted section and tie it in cleanly, rather than redoing the entire roofline.

We stand behind our installation workmanship, and materials carry their own manufacturer guarantees, which we pass on to you at handover.

Yes — once the leak itself is resolved, we replace the damaged board and refinish the cornicing so there's no visible patch.

Rhino board is more impact- and moisture-resistant, which suits areas like garages or laundries; gypsum gives a slightly smoother finish for living areas. We'll recommend based on the specific room.

A standard room ceiling with cornicing typically takes a few days including finishing time; larger areas or full-home re-ceiling take longer. We'll scope this on-site.

In most cases yes — we assess the existing gate's weight and condition and fit a motor and safety sensors suited to it.

Safety sensors and obstruction detection are standard on any automation we fit, so the gate stops or reverses rather than continuing to close against an obstruction.

A custom steel gate typically needs to be fabricated to your exact opening before installation, so timelines depend on design complexity — we'll give you a realistic schedule once the design is signed off.

Yes — we can assess and repair faulty gate motors and safety sensors on existing automated gates, not only fit new ones.

As a working guide, around 6m wide by 6m deep comfortably takes two mid-size cars with room to open doors; 5.5m wide is workable but tight. Height matters as much as width — allow at least 2.1m clearance for a standard car, and more if you have a bakkie, roof rack or 4x4. We confirm the span and clearance against your actual vehicles before quoting.

Yes, wall-mounted carports are common and cost-effective where there's an existing boundary or house wall to tie into.

Often yes, depending on the size and your specific municipality's requirements — we advise on this for your property rather than assuming a one-size-fits-all answer.

IBR and polycarbonate are both common choices; the right one depends on whether you want maximum weather protection or more natural light through the roof. We finish steelwork with anti-corrosion priming either way.

Yes — correct flue sizing and chimney height relative to surrounding walls and roof lines is the single biggest factor, and we design for it before building, not after.

Yes, we build both open-air built-in braais and fully roofed boma-style entertainment areas with thatch, IBR or timber roofing.

Yes — prep counters, sinks, storage and a side burner can all be built into the same project as the braai itself, planned as one outdoor kitchen rather than a braai with extras bolted on.

A simple built-in braai can often be finished within a week or two once the design is signed off; a full outdoor kitchen with counters, roofing and finishing takes longer. We'll give you a realistic timeline for your specific design.

No — we quote the entertainment area as a single bespoke project so the design, sequencing and finishes are consistent, and you only deal with one team.

It depends on scope — a deck-and-braai combination is quicker than a full layout with paving, lighting and landscaping. We'll set out a realistic timeline once we've scoped your design.

Yes — many of our entertainment area projects extend or upgrade something that's already there, rather than a full rebuild. We'll assess what's worth keeping on the first site visit.

Yes — we plan and install irrigation as part of the landscaping design so new lawns and beds establish properly from the start.

Our focus is the design and build — the retaining walls, lawn renovation, planting and irrigation. We're happy to advise on a maintenance routine and can recommend next steps once the garden is established.

Salt- and wind-tolerant species generally do best closer to the coast, while more sheltered inland gardens have wider planting options. We choose planting based on how exposed your specific site is, not a one-size-fits-all list.

Nationally most built-in kitchen cupboards fall between R2,500 and R12,000 per linear metre installed, and East London sits in that range. Beware quotes far below it — they usually mean standard chipboard carcasses rather than moisture-resistant board, which is a false economy in a coastal kitchen where a single dishwasher leak or humid summer can swell an unsealed edge.

Melamine is the most cost-effective and comes in solid colours and wood-grain foils. Wrap doors give a seamless, moisture-sealed matte finish at a moderate step up in cost. Duco is a sprayed painted finish — the smoothest, most premium look, at the highest cost and needing more care to avoid chips.

Yes — new doors, countertops and handles fitted to your existing carcasses and layout is one of our most requested projects, and it's significantly faster and cheaper than a full rebuild.

We coordinate the plumbing and electrical trades a renovation needs — moving a sink or adding under-cabinet lighting — so you deal with one team rather than managing separate contractors yourself.

Standard chipboard swells and delaminates if it gets wet — a real risk under a sink or near a dishwasher, especially in East London's humid coastal climate. We build every carcass from moisture-resistant board as standard, not as an upgrade.

The cupboards themselves often look cheaper on the shelf, but that price doesn't include measuring, cutting, plumbing and electrical coordination, or fitting — and standard flat-pack sizes rarely match an existing kitchen's actual dimensions without gaps, filler panels or wasted space. A custom quote is itemised for your kitchen specifically, so it's a fairer comparison than it first looks, and you're not left assembling and fitting it yourself.

Handleless and slimline-handle doors, matte and textured finishes over high-gloss, two-tone cabinetry (a darker island against lighter perimeter units), and integrated appliances are the strongest trends we're fitting in East London kitchens right now. We'll talk through which of these suit your layout and budget rather than pushing a single look on every kitchen.

Steel frames are often cheaper to buy, but near the coast they're the more expensive choice over time — salt air attacks steel, and once rust starts at a weld or fixing it spreads behind the paint. Aluminium doesn't rust, which is why it's replaced steel on most East London coastal homes. Replacing old rusted steel frames with aluminium is one of our most common window jobs.

Yes — plastering, painting and sealing around the new frame is included so the finish looks intentional, not patched.

Sliding, casement (side-hung), top-hung and louvre windows — the right configuration depends on the opening, the ventilation you need and how exposed that wall is to wind-driven rain.

Yes — this is one of our most common window jobs on older East London homes, where timber frames have swollen, rotted or are simply due for an upgrade.

Yes, properly finished aluminium resists the salt-air corrosion that affects steel frames, and good sealing at installation keeps out wind-driven rain — the main coastal failure point for older window installations.

Yes, though it's more cost-effective to wire it in during the build. We can retrofit lighting into existing decks and paved areas where needed.

Yes — we often combine the two in one layout, so entrances and vulnerable areas get functional security lighting while the rest of the garden gets softer, more usable lighting.

No — low-voltage LED fittings use very little power compared to mains floodlighting, which is part of why they've become the standard choice for garden and deck lighting.

Yes, flower bed refreshes are one of our most common smaller jobs — we can re-edge, replant and improve drainage without touching the rest of the garden.

Brick and stone edging need the least maintenance over time; steel edging gives a cleaner, more modern line but can need rust treatment near the coast. We'll recommend based on your garden's style and exposure.

Yes — we take care during removal and refitting specifically to protect new flooring and freshly painted walls.

PVC resists moisture better than MDF, which matters in damp-prone rooms; timber gives the most natural look for living areas but needs proper sealing. We'll recommend based on the room.

In most cases yes, depending on the profile's availability — we'll advise honestly if an exact match isn't possible and suggest the closest alternative.

Yes, all our sheds are custom-built to the space available rather than off-the-shelf kit sizes.

Yes — if you need bench space, shelving and power points rather than just storage, we design for that from the start.

Yes — timber is treated and finished appropriately for the salt air and humidity, and we advise on any periodic resealing needed to keep it that way.

Yes — most of our catteries include at least one roofed, sheltered section so cats have shade and stay dry in bad weather, alongside the open mesh run.